The problem has been solved over a wide range of Reynolds number (50 ≤ Re ≤ 300) and Prandtl number (10 ≤ Pr ≤ 50). This work aims to explore the T-channel momentum and heat transfer characteristics with the combined effect of Bingham plastic fluids (0.01 ≤ Bn ≤ 20) behavior and geometrical variation in terms of branching angle (30 deg ≤ α ≤ 90 deg).
I just treated the Altima in my sig the other day. My Escalade undercarriage is beautiful now. I'm having that struggle with the Classic in my signature. Which is unfortunate because once you commit to oil its not easy to get the undercarriage clean. You may get a chip or 2 if the oil is built up with dirt. it dilutes the strength and hampers Cosmolines ability to creep into the rust layers. Its not really a good idea to combine the Cosmoline or any wax with oil. I never seem to get every last drop out of a FF can. The 11.75 FF cans you get at lowes are $10 ea. I buy a 9 pack of RP-342 12oz cans for $100 online. Its not that expensive if you shop around. The oil was moving around, but the buildup of dirt had absorbed the oil, allowing rust underneath. Under the soot so thick it looked like a bees nest was rusted rear brake lines in back. The first time I've ever lost the brakes while driving in the Classic in my sig which has been oiled for its entire life. Which is what happened to me 2 weeks ago. You can see if the rust is bleeding through or active. Which is good because you can see the results. Which means the sand and soot won't build up, water and snow won't wash it off, salt won't penetrate. It does get a little tacky, creep and self heal in hot summer weather. I'm in the 4th winter with RP-342 covering the Escalade undercarraige, and the only thing I'm doing at this point is touching up tiny spots I missed or required additional coats.
After a couple of coats you're pretty much good for years. Gone is the smell, the mess, and the constant maintenance required using FF or oil. The difference between FF and Cosomline (I use RP-342) is night and day. It's pretty expensive though.and it won't creep into all tight spots like a fluid film would. What I'd like to do is buy some cosmoline and just touch up a few "heavy traffic areas" on my frame.that stuff goes on wet and dries into a pretty durable wax. The stuff doesn't dry out and clog the works which is nice. I store it all in a clean 5gal bucket with a lid so it's easy to grab when I need it. The nice thing about owning the spray gun kit is you can hit what ever areas you want as often as you want. The way I think about it, it's the stagnant areas that will sneak up on you and rust, so that's were these fluid/grease like coatings work their magic the best. Could there still be some magical zinc or whatever left behind like Krown claims? I have no idea. It's been maybe 5 weeks since I woolwaxed my Ram and like you say, i can see where areas that get directly blasted by water/mist would wear away in a matter of months or less.
00207 fluid film full#
Not sure how woolwax is, but fluid film does tend to wash away.I don't consider it a full year application, it needs to be done twice a year in my opinion.īut it's been good to me as long as I reapply it twice a year. I like fluid film, but I don't exactly love it.
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